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Considering its location (in the middle of meatpacking-district hell), its ridiculous size (as big as a bus depot), and its strange hothouse décor (like the palace of an arriviste Balinese drug lord), it’s a wonder this restaurant works at all. But Jean-Georges’s take on the street foods of Southeast Asia works to surprising effect, and despite its eccentricities, Spice Market is just plain fun. If you can’t get a table (and even if you can), sit at the cantilevered bar upstairs, where it’s a pleasure to dine on chicken wings drizzled in a sticky-sweet chile sauce, or bowls of curried duck, or the short ribs, which are softened in a mass of onion and green chiles, and watch the party unfold. — Adam Platt
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SPICE MARKET
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CHEF RICCO
Anthony Ricco always cooked, and always knew that was the career he wanted. He worked as a prep cook at China Grill before coming to ICE in 2001. He says, “I needed a life change. My brother forced me to go to ICE because I was holding on to the brochure for almost a year and he knew I had talent in the kitchen but I was wasting it. ICE helped me find my culinary voice by giving me access to quality product and excellent teachers who are very talented chefs.” He then worked at a restaurant in Long Island City, before going to Jean Georges, where he worked for three years, spending time at every station in the restaurant. He then received an offer to work at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Spice Market. His advice for culinary students is that “It is very important for young cooks to realize that we are in the best profession. Imagine getting to play with food all day and getting paid for it this is not a job it is therapy, its fun, it is a place where you can be creative and put your thoughts onto a plate and see if they make sense. Once you understand balance of flavor and can create a dish that works there is nothing more satisfying in the world.”.
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